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1927, the year the Musketeers triumphed at the
Davis Cup, the year Charles Lindbergh flew nonstop across the Atlantic
Ocean and the year Hubert deGivenchy was born at No 24, rue Saint-Louis
in Beauvais (France).
Very early on, Givenchy manifests a
passion for fashion. At age 10, he visits the World's Fair in Paris and
returns filled with wonder from the Pavilion of Elegance, where 30
models of the most famous French couture houses were presented. His
mind is set: he will be a fashion designer.
When France is liberated from German occupation, Hubert de Givenchy
moves to Paris and begins to study with Jacques Fath. He continues his
training under the guidance of Robert Piguet, and then becomes Lucien
Lelong's assistant after Christian Dior's departure in 1947. That same
year, Elsa Schiaparelli entrusts Givenchy with the management of her
boutique on Place Vendôme, where he will spend four years.
On
February 2nd 1952, Hubert de Givenchy's dream comes true: he opens his
own Maison de Couture at No8, rue Alfred de Vigny, on the Monceau
Plain. His first collection is an immediate success. Bettina Graziani,
both model and press agent of the company, becomes the brand's icon. He
created for her the famous "Bettina blouse."
1953 is a turning
point. Indeed, the young designer meets Audrey Hepburn, the incarnation
of his ideal of femininity. Here begins a 40-year long friendship,
during which the actress will become the brand's ambassador. Films
starring Hepburn such as Breakfast At Tiffany's, Funny Face or Sabrina
convey Givenchy's image of refined elegance around the world.
That
same year, Hubert de Givenchy befriends Cristobal Balenciaga and
considers him as his Master. Balenciaga's influence is present in the
spirit of innumerable Givenchy collections, and is particularly evident
in the designer's taste for structured minimalist clothing.
A
pioneer in many fields, Givenchy is the first designer to present a
luxury collection of women's ready-to-wear (1954). His work combines
elegance and classicism with audacity and modernity. "Separates"
(1952), the bag-dress (1955), the funneled collar coat (1958), the
enveloped dresses (1966), and the garments of printed textiles inspired
by Miro, Matisse or Christian Bérard (the Eighties) are among his most
original designs.
Throughout the years the Givenchy brand
diversified its activities. 1973 is a milestone year, as Givenchy
enters the realm of menswear, with the launch of the "Gentleman
Givenchy" line.
The brand also expands its distribution network
internationaly to many countries, in particular to the Far East and to
the United States.
Givenchy became part of French luxury group
LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton alongside other prestige labels
including Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Christian Lacroix and Céline.
After
Monsieur de Givenchy's retirement in 1995, John Galliano, graduate of
London's St Martin's School of Art and thrice elected "Designer of the
Year" by the British Fashion Council, became the new designer for
Givenchy's Haute-couture and luxury ready-to-wear lines. In October
1996 Alexander McQueen, also graduate of London's St Martin's School of
Art, is appointed to succeed him.
In March 2001, Julien
Macdonald was named Artistic Director for Women. In this role,
Macdonald oversees the design for Haute-Couture, women’s ready-to-wear
and accessories.
Julien Macdonald, 28, comes to GIVENCHY after
founding his own company in 1997. Prior to that, he was the head
knitwear designer at Chanel Couture. While he first wanted to be an
actor, he discovered his passion for fabrics and enrolled at the
Brighton University and then completed a Master of Arts at the Royal
college of Art. |
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