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Jean Patou was born in Normandy, France, in 1880.
Patou's father was a leading tanner (leather maker) and his uncle owned
a fur business which Patou joined in 1907. In 1912 Patou opened Maison
Parry, a small dressmaking salon in Paris, and sold his entire 1914
collection to one American buyer.
His career was then interrupted by the war, which he spent as an army captain.
In
1919, he reopened his salon, this time under his own name. His
collections were successful from the start. He showed bell-skirted,
high-waisted shepherdess-style dresses, many embroidered in the Russian
style. He designed for actresses such as Constance Bennett, Mary
Pickford and Louise Brooks, but his finest achievements were in the
field of sports wear, which always occupied an important position in
his collections.
In the early 20's, his inspired work in the
sportswear field gave fashion another dimension. He dressed tennis star
Suzanne Lenglen in styles that she wore both on and off the tennis
court. Other clients included the Dolly Sisters, who took 200 changes
of garments on their tour of the USA, in the mid 20's, all made by
Patou.
Patou
began the pleasant custom of a preview of his collection before the
press. He was also known for his sweaters with Cubist designs. He was
very much influenced by Art Deco and Cubism, creating sharp geometric
shapes and patterns in his fabrics.
Jean Patou invented the
first designer label, with his pockets outlined with a "J" and "P".
Like Poiret, Jean Patou was a brilliant public relations man. On a
visit to the USA in 1925, he was impressed by the long legged American
girls. He auditioned 500 girls and chose 6 to accompany him back to
Paris. This caused an uproar in the French press.
1925
was a most active year for Jean Patou. He opened Sports Corner where
separate rooms were devoted to clothes for a different sporting
activity, like golf or fishing, with clothes co-ordinated with
accessories, scarves, lingerie, jewelry, hats, etc. He was also famous
for his bathing suits.
Also in 1925 he
introduced his first perfumes Amour-Amour, for brunettes, Que Sais-je
for blondes, and Adieu Sagesse for redheads. In 1929, he added Le Sien,
a sports fragrance, and in 1931 his most famous Joy, still one of the
great perfumes of the world. He later launched "1000" , Sublime and Eau
de Patou. His perfume JOY is always advertised as "The most costly
perfume in the world".
Patou opened branches in Monte Carlo, Biarritz, Deauville and Venice to cater to international society.
In 1928, Jean Patou created "Huile de Caldee, the first sun lotion.
Jean
Patou was fortunate in having many friends and family members who
worked with him and kept him in touch with Parisienne life. Foremost
was his sister Madeleine, who was 7 years younger than he. She was his
source of inspiration, his ideal, a small, neat, dark, chic, active
modern woman.
Until his death, Patou was a giant of the
fashion world, dominating both couture and ready-to-wear. Patou met an
early death in 1936, at the age of 56.
His sister's husband
George Barbas took over the house. Jean Patou's great-nephews Guy and
Jean de Mouy now run the company. The family has continued to manage
the house, with a range of designers who have gone on to fame
themselves.
In 1967 Jean Kerleo, the legendary perfumer, joined the house
and since then has created all the great perfumes for which Jean Patou
is famed. They are expensive because they are made with authentic Patou
extravagance, out of the most precious natural ingredients. "Joy" is
advertised as the most expensive perfume in the world. The house is
still offering collections of beautiful gowns to the clientele of Paris. |
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